Saturday, September 29, 2012

Cizur Menor -- 29 Septiembre

Well Mother Nature decided to pour rain so when I awoke at 6:30 I decided to walk to Cizur Menor 5.1 km away. After Cizur Menor there is a gradual climb up from 450 m here to the highest point 790 m -- 8.6 km away. Yet after my day from Zubri to Arre climbing up then descending, I am taking my time :-) Also want to give my left arm and wrist -- shins -- ample time to restore for the longer distances to come.

Also am noticing what it is hard for me to do! Like 'Not Do Something'. There is a part of me that wants to stay connected through this blog or e-mail. Yet this Camino is a gift to myself of surrendering to the Unfamiliar! To Trust! To Faith! To celebrate my well-being given being so exhausted and sick five years ago. To see what's happening within! So it has taken this past 7 days to realize that while I love the iPhone--she allows access to connect whenever Internet is available. Which I am finding is more so than when I walked about in 2010!

Earlier I sat in the only cafe in Cizur Menor and began to journal! So this may be my last blog entry for a while. We shall see what happens as I stop looking down at the phone and blogging. And instead engage with the present moment!

Laundry is ready to hang and dry :-)

Buen Camino!

Albergue de Paderborn -- Pamplona 28 Septiembre 2012

Much appreciation and gratitude to the Brothers who maintain Albergue Hermanos Maristas at Trinidad de Arre and pelegrinos who stayed there! I awoke and the body felt rested and ok to walk the 5 km to Pamplona.

It's after 13:00 and I am typing this in a pintxo bar and the background music just played the song Stronger by a female artist whose name escapes me. So synchronistic given my last week :-)

For I am stronger in a lot of ways as I type with teary eyes.

This morning at 7:15 I attended the 15 minute pilgrim's prayer at Trinidad de Arre! So beautiful! Very emotional for me. I cried at the end and it felt at first not the thing to do in the church yet Lise sat with me. And I realized to hold back the tears was definitely not the thing to do. Felt good.

Then after many hugs and Buen Caminos, I was the last to leave about 9. By 11, I was at the albergue in Pamplona. Casa Paderborn. Thank you Source--they allowed backpacks to be deposited between 10 and when they opened at 12. Gave me an hour to explore without 9 kg on my back :-)

The pintxo bars are along Calle Estafeta near Plaza del Castillo. What a tasty lunch!!!!! And filling for 2 euro each. The Rioja was also tasty and inexpensive at 1.70 euro a glass. Tom would be in heaven :-) I loved looking at all the variety. And the serving is large.

The shift from the quiet of Arre to the bustle of the medieval part of Pamplona was smooth as I arrived here when shops are closed for siesta :-) between 14:00 and 16:00.

19:00 and the bustle is starting up as people stroll around. I'm sitting at Cafe Iruna where Ernest Hemingway hung out. Beautiful interior yet I'm outside watching all the people go by.

The pintxos earlier were filling so I think it's time to head back to sleep. Not before I finish this post :-) What the hay...I'll have a glass of vino blanco and jamon. And I discovered a 5-minute way to the albergue versus the 20-minute way I came.

21:30...bedtime. Tomorrow morning I'll awake and decide where to walk to for tomorrow night!

Thank you body for an awesome walk!

Buen Camino!

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Another Day To Restore...27 Septiembre

10:56 and I'm sitting in the park near the albergue. Reflecting. The food (that four people cooked last night and shared with me) and my stomach did not agree. Thankfully my stomach won out within an hour of food and stomach meeting :-) by expelling the food.

Decided in the middle of the night while drinking a lot of water and feeling my left arm aching--to check into a hotel here and give myself another day to restore! So I asked Brother Martin this morning where there was a hotel and he showed me on the map. And asked me what I needed? To rest another day! He said to stay another day here. He did not know the quality of the hotel in town. I started to tear up and he gave me a hug. And said we are here for you, It's the smallest of gestures like the hug and the simplest of generosity like offering that I stay another night that even now fill me with huge gratitude.

Meanwhile, I observed last night as I sat in the communal kitchen while two sets of two women prepared two sets of food. Each of us waiting our turn at the stove. Each of the three sets operating individually. Wondering what had us each in our three groups instead of preparing and sharing food (given the circumstances of all stores closed due to the strike). I was cooking some dried pasta that was in the cabinet and the green beans that Brother Martin left. I offered up to all four. Both sets knew I had not been able to find a market open so each offered me some of their food. I thanked them, ate. It tasted good yet in a few minutes my stomach said no! The rest is history :-) And I wondered was my field expelling the energy I felt from these two sets of women. One set had not eaten since breakfast, had walked over 20 km, and were not able to have anywhere open along the way to have something to eat. The other set -- not sure their experience that day -- yet they were intent in conversation in a different language.

That experience has we wondering how I am being. How I want to be. As I live life whether here on Camino France or wherever.

I also noticed a few that I met last night asked me this morning how I was and if I was continuing on today. That was BEFORE I sat on the side of my bed feeling not well, quite alone and sad to not be in familiar surroundings! BEFORE the kindness of Martin and his hug and his words. Then I remembered I'm not alone. All I have to do is ask.

The markets are open today! So I have provisions to share. The sun is out and they are mowing the grass in the park so the smell of just mowed grass feels the air!

Thank you Source for I have learned to take it slow and easy.

Buen Camino!

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Albergue Trinadad de Arre --26 Septiembre 2012

It's 12 noon and I am very grateful to have taken this day to stay at this albergue another night! Even after 10 hours of sleep last night. Arnica tablets, Advil, lots of water during yesterday's walk --I am still tired. The inflammation in my left arm, wrist, fingers which arrived yesterday is a contributor! And walking yesterday about 17 km. Definitely time for a rest day!!! I mis-calculated--I calculated 10 km yesterday not 17 :-|

Oh well -- all good! Body knew and screamed REST TODAY! DO NOT WALK TODAY!

Good thing -- Martin at the reception said today is on strike in the town and nothing is open! Another pelegrino just checked in here because she heard Pamplona's city center is closed off due to the strike/demonstration!

Happy for this quiet place to rest! Martin left green beans for us to cook since now it's foraging in the kitchen for lunch and dinner! For once my snacks are limited...

Buen Camino!

PS...yesterday and today are down mood days for me. My left wrist -- not having full use of it since I woke up has been dis-heartening! Tires me more! Today I am catching up on my blog posts while I rest. So that when I have wi-fi again I can upload my posts. And I realize I am writing about the wonderful highlights. Voila here is the balance!

Good to talk with the other pelegrinos as we encourage each other to take care of ourselves with the walking and carrying of backpack over a distance!

Glad to have brought essential oils to massage my left arm. And now my calf muscles and shins are sore!

OY! OY! Moving slowly! Time to go sit in the sun that is now out and have some arnica :-)

17:00 OH MY...I just calculated my daily mileage and posted. No wonder I need a rest day! AND I will rest as after Pamplona which is 5 km away, it's a climb up in elevation! WEO...what did I say Yes to ???

Orisson, France 22 Septiembre 2012

So very grateful that I reserved a night's stay in this private albergue in Orisson!

32 euro for half board which means you share a room like a hostel plus communal dinner and breakfast.

Worth it because after 8 km going from 200 m to 800 m with a backpack AND it was a sunny day--so hot!--I was grateful. Especially since my suitcase being shipped to Santiago did not get picked up until after 9 am that morning which meant I started walking about 9:30 am.

I checked in at 1:11 pm.

This first week will be interesting!

Meanwhile...my initiation into the week's to come! Wash! Make bed! Shower! Relax!

Today I have lots of time from 1:11 pm to do this before communal dinner at 6:30.

Meet one of my roommates--Ed from Perth. Australia. Sofie the receptionist explained all the facilities which included separate toilet and shower facilities. So I was not sure how the bunk beds work. Grateful that I had a bottom bunk for my first Camino albergue! And not much snoring! And good roommates--two couples, Ed and I. Ed says now I can say I slept with x number of men by the time I complete Camino France! LOL LOL LOL

Buen Camino!

Buen Camino! Saint Jean Pied de Port, France 21 Septiembre 2012

Today is 21 Septiembre 2012. And I'm resting, relaxing, packing. Tomorrow I walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Orisson. 200 meters in elevation to 800 meters. About 10 km to stay overnight in a private albergue.

I am taking this first week slow and easy. Two nights here in Saint Jean st a peaceful Maison Donamaria beside a babbling river! One night in Orisson to get adjusted to the elevation. The walking with a 4.5+ kg pack. The warm temperature (80 degrees today here :-)

As I sit and have a beer...watch the cars and pedestrians pass by...I wonder what the coming days will bring to me! I pray for ease, easy, flow, nice walking weather.

And there really is no reason that I'm doing this, other than if not now, then when!

Buen Camino!!

PS...Had my first basque meal here in Saint Jean...the vegetable soup was so flavorful and steaming hot! I would have made a meal of that! The lamb was the plat du jour and was tasty--not very lamb-y! And the gateau basque was so good--not very sweet! Lemony!

Monday, September 17, 2012

Paris, France 13 to 20 Septiembre 2012

Hmmm...the word for Paris as June and I exited Paris Montparnase train station in the taxi and the taxi quickly weaved its way through the 16:00-ish traffic? Frenetic!

It was a long yet fun train trip from Lourdes. Six hours and the woman sitting next to June (Marie) was enroute to meet up with her two sisters. Then the three were departing the next day to The Big Apple for Marie's first visit. Her list of things to see and eat was long. She asked for help with her list. What a fun way to practice our French and her English.

That was jueves, 13 Septiembre. Viernes was a lazy day for me! The first such day since we left on 1 Septiembre, that I did not go out until about 6 pm and only then to go to the market a block away to gather some dinner! Felt awesome to relax and rest all day! Perfect since the next day was a day of museums.

Musee de l'Orangerie, lunch, then Musee d'Orsay. The Water Lilies panoramas at l'Orangerie are a must see! Arriving just after the musee opened allowed me the beautiful experience of viewing them with a smaller crowd! The experience taught me that my bag of adjectives needs to expand! On the other hand, words fail when it comes to the visceral impact of something like a painting!

After l'Orangerie, the d'Orsay felt massive and overwhelming--both in itself and the crowds of people.

Thus after 2 or so hours, while June attended mass at Notre Dame, I opted for a stroll outdoors down Rue de St Louis on Ile St Louis.

Now it's Martes, 18 Septiembre and I've managed to take the Metro to Gare Saint Lezare. And arrive in time to purchase my SNCF train ticket to Vernon. Where I'll take a taxi or bus to Giverny--home of Claude Monet. While it is late September, I'm excited to feel the experience of his gardens. Water lilies. The Japanese bridge. The inspiration of his many paintings which I experienced on this past Saturday in Musees l'Orangerie and d'Orsay.

And I was not disappointed. The water garden. The flower garden. Even now in late Septiembre are beautiful. The flowers colorful and vibrant! I see how he could spend hours painting his gardens! I spent almost 4 hours wandering and sitting there!

June and I spent my last day in Paris being leisurely! We went to Pere Lachaise Cemetary (which is directly across the street from our hotel). That's since I learned two days before that a number of famous persons are buried there: Edith Piaf, Chopin, Moliere, Modiglini, Gertrude Stein, Alice B. Toklas, Jim Morrison! Then on to eat a nice dinner near Eiffel Tower. Decided to try steak aller-retour which is steak tartare that is pan fried about a minute on each side (as I saw steak tartare on every menu since I arrived in Paris! And we were rewarded with VEGETABLES! Haricot verts!

Then we passed by Eiffel Tower to the Metro station to return to the hotel as the 21:00 light show started! Thank you for a wonderful farewell to me :-)

Bon Chemin!

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Lourdes, France...9 to 12 Septiebre 2012

Ahhhh...the peaceful energy of the countryside here in Lourdes is more me than the busyness of Roma city...

Setting aside the seemingly endless number of stores selling lots and lots of religious symbols along side scarves and souvenir bags making statements like I Love Lourdes...I feel a sense of community based in the common prayers and rituals of Catholicism.

Tuesday I felt called to attend the baths. So I arrived an hour before the starting hour of 14:00. As I waited with the many other women--the baths are divided between men, women, and infirmed...I reflected, meditated, prayed. And had no clue about what would occur once I reached the end on my line wait. The info in English was not printed as the printer had failed for today. Oh well--such is Life!

Then I met up with June to walk the 9 pm mass candlelight procession. Quite moving in the collective energy and the visual mass of candles in the night proceeding around the outdoor sanctuary, zig-zagging, then culminating at the entrance to the basilica. Apparently, zig-zagging is how Bernadette approached her daily prayers and the grotto.

As I sit here now...Tuesday 23:30...I see that the baths...the night procession...are both examples of the saying 'Life is about the journey, not the destination'. For me it was not about the baths or the night procession, it was about noticing what was happening along the way.

A fitting prelude to Buen Camino :-)

Roma...2 to 8 Septiembre 2012

Eat, Pray, Love book, page 103...Giulio is explaining to Liz Gilbert -- what is the word of the city? Every city has a single word that defines it, identifies most of the people that live there. If your personal word does not match the word of the city, then you don't belong there.

What is the word that defines Roma, Lazio, Italy for me? And what is my personal word?

HMMMM...Roma...busy?

Me...quiet

No wonder I am content to wander about Roma with my friend June being the tour planner. I'm happy to read the public transport map and navigate us around Roma while she figures out the daily itinerary.

And ok to move on to Lourdes, France...yet not before we'd seen most of the famous Roma sites...Cite Vaticano, Sistine Chapel, Basilica de Saint Pietro, Pathenon, Colosseo, Bocca della Verita, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain.

And eatten lots of tasty food...panini, buccatini, fusilli, pizza, gelato, brasaloa, prosciutto crudo, arugula. Many times :-)

And for me drank decent house wine.

Then there are the FUN situations...the ones that one laughs both during and in hindsight.

Like forgetting to validate our ticket before boarding the train. The conductor shakes his head and we figure he is thinking 'silly tourists'.

Somehow I re-set the museum audio-guide from English to Italian--not once but twice. The second time I brought it to the counter...the male attendant without breaking a smile said didn't I want to learn Italian? And then as he exchanged it for a different audio-guide, said that will be another 7 euro because I broke the first set. I looked at him in disbelief, then noticed his female co-workers smiling. He must be a jokester!

Buen Camino!